Where the gods go on holiday…Positano
There is a kind of beauty that radiates magic and does not let go. The Italian seaside village of Positano is absolutely full of it. Those who bask there in the evening sun with a view of the decorated Santa Maria Assunta majolica dome, a glass of wine in hand and the marvel of the deep blue sea will always long to return…
The Amalfi Coast is one of the ten most beautiful coastlines on earth. Admirers from every corner of the world are drawn to the „Divine Coast“ whose steep and rugged features tumble into the sea between Punta Campanella and Salerno. No wonder this much vaunted stretch of land south of Naples offers truly everything the heart desires. Dream views of the sea and architectural treasures, wonderful restaurants and a Mediterranean landscape that is most appreciated when explored on foot.
Box seats in an open-air theatre
A particular gem in the Positano region „grows“ from the coast steeply up into the mountain to form a kind of open-air theatre. The site is vertically oriented. The tightly nestled white houses are characterised by small archways facing the sea and large stone arches in pastel shades which are reminiscent of gemstone facets. It is for this reason Positano is referred to as the „gem“ of the divine coast. Beauty expressed as staircases on narrow streets filled with boutiques, artisan shops, cafes and trattorias will take your breath away. Yachts and pleasure boats bustle about the marina on the small, enchanting beaches of Fornillo, Fiumicello and Arienzo amidst swimmers and sunbathers.
One storey up in the piazza, we have a wonderful view of the impressive church of Santa Maria Assunta built in the year 1000. Underneath the present floor lie the remains of a Byzantine style mosaic. Sunlight reflects off the majolica decorated dome, making the roof shimmer in many bright colours. The Costiera Amalfitana gave rise to Italian ceramic craftsmanship and it is here that one can find the loveliest, most elaborate pieces.
The path of the gods
1700 steps up or 450 meters above sea level is where you will find the Nocelle paradise district. From here, you have a magnificent view of Li Galli, three rock islets off the Positano coast. It can only be reached on foot and is the starting point of a fantastic hike: a network of ancient paths runs through the Monti Lattari overlooking beach resorts. The most famous is the Sentiero degli Dei or the path of the gods where you can relish a wonderful view of the entire coast. Despite its spectacular views and lush vegetation, only a few hikers explore the path of the gods. The turquoise sea is simply too alluring.
In good company
Hibernating in Positano was highly regarded by artists and intellectuals during the 19th century. Author John Steinbeck and director Franco Zeffirelli spent many months in Positano so as to feel inspired by its beauty. Designer Le Corbusier was fascinated by the cubic houses with flat roofs and Walter Benjamin, Ernst Bloch and Bertolt Brecht sought out modest rest from their intellectual endeavours.
Even if we can only spend a few days on holiday at the moment, the impressions of this charming southern Italian coastal town will accompany us for a long time.
For art lovers:
„Golf von Neapel und Kampanien“: Dreitausend Jahre Kunst und Kultur im Herzen Süditaliens, Dumont Verlag
Beautiful agrotourism farms, small, exceptional hotels, B&Bs and very individualised vacation apartments can be found at the Regensburg travel agency which specialises in Southern Italy: www.amalfi-ferien.de
The coastline of the Amalfi Coast has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1998. To that end, this stretch only consists of a road. Traffic jams are par for the course especially on weekends while parking is both rare and expensive. Trips which utilise public transit or boat are therefore much more pleasant and relaxed.